The Soul of Siena: How One Café Unlocks an Entire City
- Food Blogger Journey
- 1 day ago
- 9 min read
A Local's Guide to Nannini and the Art of Slow Travel in Tuscany
At two in the afternoon, I walk into Nannini and the first thing I notice is the aroma: strong espresso mixed with a sweet hint of almond and sugar I can't quite identify. Sunlight pours through tall windows onto glass cases filled with Ricciarelli, Panforte, and other tempting pastries. The place buzzes with energy.
Tourists gather with cameras ready. Locals relax at window tables, reading newspapers and letting their coffee cool, not rushing anywhere.
I order an espresso and drink it standing at the bar, just like the locals do. Then I notice the gelato case and ask for a scoop of pistachio in a freshly made cone. The cone comes straight from the kitchen, still warm, because the staff disappear for a moment and return with it. That small detail says a lot about this place. Nannini doesn't try to seem authentic—it just is, thanks to a hundred years of doing things right.
The pistachio gelato stands out. It's dense, full of flavor, and not too sweet, unlike the versions made for tourists. This one is made for locals, and that difference means more than anything you might read in a guidebook. Enjoy reading "The Soul of Siena: How One Café Unlocks an Entire City."
The Man Who Brought Espresso to Siena
To understand Nannini, go back to 1909. Guido Nannini was sixteen and had just learned something extraordinary. He had spent time with Brazilian travelers who introduced him to coffee—not the thin, bitter brew of early twentieth-century Italy, but something transformational. This was coffee made under pressure and heat, producing a concentrated, aromatic shot unlike anything Siena had tasted.
Guido came back home and put what he learned into practice. In 1919, he opened Gran Bar-La Conca d'Oro, or the Golden Basin, on Via Banchi di Sopra. He installed a high-pressure steam machine that quickly got people talking all over the city. This was a big change—it brought modern Italian espresso to Siena, thanks to a Tuscan teenager who was paying attention at the right time. By 1930, the business had grown enough to be officially recognized as a licensed liqueur and pastry factory. That's when the Nannini name started to become a part of Siena itself.
The original Conca d'Oro still welcomes visitors on Via Banchi di Sopra. If you only make one stop away from Piazza del Campo, make it this one. Inside, the café feels almost sacred, as if coffee and pastries truly deserve special attention and care.
Formula 1, Rock and Roll, and a Family Legacy
The Nannini family’s twentieth century could be a novel with two main characters. Alessandro Nannini raced Formula 1 cars, winning the 1989 Japanese Grand Prix, until a helicopter crash changed his course. His next chapter began back in Siena, where he poured the same focus and drive into the family’s coffee roasting. Today, the Nannini plant crafts exclusive blends—Araldica, rich with cocoa and dark chocolate, and the signature Classica—both shipped around the world. The man who once sped at 200 miles per hour now finds purpose in the slow, careful rituals of roasting and tasting. That shift feels quintessentially Italian.
His sister Gianna took a different route, becoming a rock star with sold-out concerts all over Europe. Gianna Nannini, known for her raspy voice, is one of Italy’s music legends, with a career lasting fifty years. Her success has made the Nannini name famous far beyond Tuscany, but the family’s roots are still in Siena. This is where it all began. When you drink coffee at Nannini, you’re tasting the legacy of a family that produced both an espresso pioneer and a rock icon. That doesn’t happen often.
The Holy Trinity: What to Order and Why It Matters
Siena has three traditional sweets that Nannini has been making for over a century, and each one carries a history worth knowing before you eat it.
Panforte, which means 'strong bread,' is the oldest of Siena’s traditional sweets. It dates back to the 1200s and is dense, chewy, and full of spice. You won’t find anything like it in northern Europe or North America. Panforte Nero is the original version—dark and flavored with black pepper and cocoa, made for people who once valued spices like gold.
Panforte Margherita was created in 1879 for Queen Margherita of Savoy’s visit to Siena. It’s lighter and whiter, with candied citrus peel, honey, and vanilla that make the recipe softer. Both types have the PGI label, which means the European Union recognizes them as products from this specific region. If you buy Panforte with the PGI seal, you’re getting the real thing.
Ricciarelli are softer, more yielding — diamond-shaped almond biscuits dusted with powdered sugar, fragrant with orange peel and vanilla. The texture is between a macaroon and marzipan. They dissolve with a kind of elegance that makes you understand why they have been paired with espresso and Vin Santo for centuries. Order them with a strong coffee. Do not rush them.
The coffee at Nannini is worth talking about on its own. Their Araldica blend, which is the house espresso in most locations, is rich and full-bodied without being bitter. The flavor stays with you. Having an espresso and a Ricciarelli at the bar in the afternoon, surrounded by the lively sounds of a Sienese café, is one of the best travel moments you can have in Tuscany.
The Viale Vittorio Location: What to Know Before You Go
Nannini has a few locations in Siena, but the one at Viale Vittorio Emanuele II, 9 is different from the historic Conca d'Oro. The original is busy, beautiful, and full of history, while Viale Vittorio feels like a real neighborhood café. Its modern, open space and big windows let in the energy of the street.
Solo travelers feel comfortable here. It’s the kind of place where you can open your laptop next to a plate of warm focaccia with ham and cheese, or sip a glass of local wine all afternoon. Time seems to slow down.
A practical tip: in Italy, sitting at a table usually costs more than standing at the bar. At Nannini, an espresso at the counter is about €1.10, while table service adds a small extra charge. Both prices are fair. Standing at the bar is the more authentic experience, and it puts you right in the middle of the action, just like the locals.
This location is wheelchair accessible and is open every day from 8:00 AM, closing at 8:30 PM most days and at 8:00 PM on Wednesdays. Besides sweets and coffee, the menu includes savory options like panini, focaccia, and tiramisu, making it a great spot for a light lunch or an afternoon break.
How to Build a Day Around It: A Real Itinerary
Nannini works best as the starting point for a day in Siena, not just as a place to visit. Here’s the itinerary I followed, beginning at the café and letting it guide how I explored the city.
8:30 AM: Begin at Nannini Viale Vittorio. Have a cappuccino and a fresh Ricciarelli at the bar. This is the right way to do breakfast. The café is peaceful in the morning, and the sunlight through the big windows is reason enough to come early.
10:00 AM: Head north to Porta Camollia, the historic gate at the city walls. The inscription above the arch, "Cor magis tibi Sena pandit," means "Siena opens her heart to you more than this gate." It might sound like a slogan, but when you stand under the arch, it feels genuine.
11:30 AM: Walk down Via di Camollia, which leads south from the gate into the city center. It’s one of Siena’s hidden gems, with small artisan shops, peaceful courtyards, and hardly any tour groups. Take your time here.
1:00 PM: Visit the historic Conca d'Oro on Via Banchi di Sopra, where Guido Nannini began in 1919. Locals call the interior a 'temple of gluttony,' and they mean it in a good way. Pick up a box of Panforte with the PGI seal and a bag of coffee beans to take home. The Classica blend or the 100% Arabica are both great choices.
2:30 PM: Head to Piazza del Campo and the Duomo. These tourist spots are popular for good reason. Piazza del Campo is one of Europe’s best medieval squares, and the Siena Duomo, with its striped marble facade and Pisano pulpit, is worth a slow visit. By mid-afternoon, the crowds get smaller and the light on the marble shifts.
5:00 PM — Find your own aperitivo. This is where I will deviate from the standard recommendation. R5:00 PM: Find your own spot for aperitivo. Instead of going back to Nannini for this, which is still a good choice, I suggest exploring beyond the main tourist areas. Look for a smaller place that hasn’t made it into the guidebooks yet.assuming bar off the main city center street that a local pointed us toward when we asked where the Sienese actually go for aperitivo. The room is cozy, the hospitality is the kind that makes you feel you have been coming here for years rather than minutes, and the taglieri — the charcuterie boards of regional cold cuts and cheeses — are built with the kind of care that suggests someone who takes the sourcing seriously.
Both indoor and outdoor seating are available, and on a warm Tuscan evening, the outdoor tables put you directly into the rhythm of the street in a way that no tourist restaurant can manufacture. Local wines, craft beers, and a room full of people who are not consulting their phones every five minutes.
What struck us most, though, was the pricing — genuinely reasonable for what you receive, the kind of honest value that has clearly kept the locals coming back rather than drifting toward the more expensive options closer to the Piazza.
The name, 53100, is Siena’s postal code, which says a lot about the bar’s attitude. It isn’t trying to be anything it’s not. It’s simply a neighborhood place in a city that values its local spots.
I mention this not just as a recommendation, but as a way to approach Siena. The city rewards anyone willing to explore beyond the usual spots. Nannini is a great starting point—well-known and excellent—but Siena’s real spirit lives in places that haven’t made it onto Wikipedia yet.
What to Take Home
If you want to bring a taste of Siena home, focus on two things. First, get a box of Panforte with the PGI seal—this mark proves it’s the real deal, not a tourist copy. Panforte Nero keeps well and makes a great conversation starter at dinner. Second, pick up a bag of Nannini coffee.
Both the 100% Arabica and Classica blends are available at Conca d'Oro and Viale Vittorio. They aren’t the cheapest souvenirs, but you’ll enjoy them for months, remembering the aroma from your afternoon at the café.
A Century in a Cup
Travel feels most rewarding when you understand why locals love certain places, not just when you visit famous sights. Nannini is famous because of its real quality—Guido’s early ideas about coffee were right, and the family has spent a hundred years doing things the right way. Siena, unlike many other Italian cities, has kept its café culture alive, even as tourism grows.
When you stand at the Viale Vittorio bar with an espresso and pistachio gelato, and locals nearby talk about the Palio over wine, you’re not just observing Siena—you’re part of it, even if just for a moment. Feeling welcomed instead of just entertained is what slow travel is all about. Nannini is the place to start that experience.
Start your visit there. Take your time. Ask a local where to go for aperitivo. Go home with coffee, Panforte, and memories that no photo can capture. That’s the Siena you’ll want to remember.
Quick Reference
Nannini Viale Vittorio: Viale Vittorio Emanuele II, 9 — Open daily 8:00 AM–8:30 PM (closes at 8:00 PM on Wednesdays). Wheelchair accessible. Espresso at the bar: approx. €1.10.
Nannini Conca d'Oro (Historic): Via Banchi di Sopra — The original 1919 location. Best for purchasing Panforte (look for PGI seal) and coffee beans.
53100 Street Food & Wine: Off the main city center street — Local aperitivo bar with regional taglieri, wine, and craft beer.
To buy: Panforte Nero (PGI sealed), Ricciarelli, Nannini Classica, or 100% Arabica coffee beans.
Dirk Ebener is the founder and creator behind the Food Blogger Journey website, drawing on over 40 years of international travel across more than 60 countries. His global adventures have deepened his understanding of regional cuisines, local customs, and the powerful connection between food and culture. From bustling street markets in Asia to quiet vineyard dinners in Europe, Dirk captures authentic culinary experiences through immersive storytelling. Through Food Blogger Journey, he invites readers to explore the world one dish and step at a time.
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Very nice article about the cafe and culture in Siena. The Nannini family is very famous, and had a great accomplishments with music, F1 driving, and food and beverage. Thank you for sharing!