Malta: A Timeless Tapestry of Limestone, Sea, and Savor

Source: Photo by Christian Seebeck on Unsplash

Malta’s story stretches back before its limestone cliffs, beyond its clear seas, and is reflected in the traditional meals served in its village squares. When I visited Malta several years ago, I felt as though I had stepped into a living museum where Phoenician traders, Roman governors, Arab architects, Knights of St. John, and British officers had all left their footprints on the same narrow streets.

Malta’s history reads like an epic: located in the central Mediterranean between Sicily and North Africa, it has been strategically important for centuries. From the prehistoric temples of Ħaġar Qim (older than the pyramids of Egypt) to the walled city of Mdina, once the capital and still known as the “Silent City,” Malta’s layered past is visible at every turn. The Knights of St. John fortified the islands in the 16th century, building Valletta as a grid of bastions and churches, which later gave way to French and British control before the island gained independence in 1964.

I had always planned to visit Malta, and when the chance finally came, I packed my carry-on, small camera, and an empty stomach, ready to taste, explore, and walk through its rich history.

When to Visit Malta

The best times to travel to Malta are between April and June or September and October. During these months, the island bathes in warm sunlight without the suffocating heat of July and August, and the sea is warm enough for a swim. I visited in late May, finding perfect weather for coastal walks and dinner on candle-lit terraces, the breeze carrying hints of salt and rosemary from the scrubby landscape.

Source: Photo by Ferenc Horvath on Unsplash

How Many Days to Spend

For a first trip, 7 to 10 days is ideal. It allows time to base yourself in Valletta or Sliema while making day trips to Mdina, Gozo, and the Three Cities. You’ll have days to explore the history and culture, indulge in Malta’s culinary diversity, and take slow afternoons sipping local wines at seaside cafes.

The Colors and Layers of Valletta

I started in Valletta, a UNESCO World Heritage city that feels like a stone ship anchored between harbors. My mornings began with a strong Maltese coffee paired with a pastizz, a flaky pastry stuffed with ricotta or mushy peas, bought from small kiosks near Republic Street. Valletta’s St. John’s Co-Cathedral, with its gold-leaf interiors and Caravaggio paintings, left me breathless. Walking down Merchant’s Street, I passed local ironwork balconies draped with drying laundry, street cats lounging in patches of sun, and small wine bars tucked into centuries-old buildings.

At night, Valletta transforms into intimate restaurants in hidden courtyards, with music drifting from wine bars. One evening, I dined on fenek (rabbit stew) at a small eatery, the rabbit tender from slow cooking in wine, garlic, and herbs, while sipping a glass of Girgentina, a crisp local white wine that cut through the richness of the dish.

Mdina and Rabat: A Step into Stillness

On the third day, I visited Mdina and Rabat. Mdina’s narrow, winding streets are car-free, and the limestone buildings glow with a pink hue at sunset. The silence is profound; only the sounds of your footsteps echo in the alleyways. 

At Fontanella Tea Garden, I had coffee with a slice of Maltese almond cake while overlooking the island from the fortress walls.

Next door in Rabat, I visited St. Paul’s Catacombs, wandering through ancient underground passageways that once held early Christian burials.

A small family-run cafe near the catacombs served me hobz biz-zejt, crusty Maltese bread rubbed with tomatoes, drizzled with olive oil, and topped with capers, tuna, and olives—a perfect, humble lunch.

Crossing to Gozo

Mid-trip, I took the ferry to Gozo, Malta’s greener, slower-paced sister island. Gozo’s coastline is dotted with hidden coves and red-sand beaches, while inland villages preserve a traditional way of life. The Ggantija Temples, older than Stonehenge, rise from the countryside, a reminder of Malta’s prehistoric past.

In Gozo’s Victoria, I walked the Citadel. I found a family-run restaurant serving lampuki pie (fish pie) made with the local seasonal dorado fish, capers, and vegetables wrapped in a flaky pastry. It paired beautifully with a glass of Chardonnay from Marsovin, a Maltese winery producing small-batch wines with intense mineral notes reflecting the island’s terroir.

Source: Photo by Jared Lee on Unsplash

Maltese Wines: A Discovery

Wine in Malta is a well-kept secret. The limestone soil and abundant sunshine produce wines with distinctive flavors, and wineries like Meridiana, Marsovin, and Delicata offer tastings for visitors. I visited a small winery near Mdina and tasted their Gellewza red, light-bodied wine with cherry notes and their crisp, aromatic Girgentina whites. Maltese wines pair naturally with local cuisine, complementing the Mediterranean flavors without overpowering them.

Five Local Restaurants Off the Tourist Radar

While tourists often gather in the larger Valletta restaurants, I found some less-touristy gems worth sharing:

1. Legligin Wine Bar (Valletta) – A cozy spot with no printed menu; the chef prepares a tasting menu of Maltese dishes paired with local wines in an intimate setting.

2. Ta’ Rikardu (Mdina) – A small eatery specializing in homemade sheep cheese ravioli, rabbit stew, and local wines, with rustic wooden tables.

3. Ta’ Karolina (Gozo, Xlendi Bay) – Known for its fresh fish dishes, including octopus stew and lampuki, served with views over the water.

4. Il-Baxa Café (Rabat) – A family-run cafe with traditional Maltese dishes, local wines, and a peaceful courtyard for slow lunches.

5. Diar il-Bniet (Dingli) – A farm-to-table restaurant where ingredients come from their farm, with seasonal menus and Maltese classics like kapunata (Maltese ratatouille).

These places gave me the feeling of discovering Malta at a deeper, more personal level, away from cruise ship crowds and busy squares.

Source: Photo on Wix

Cultural Differences and Local Customs

Maltese culture is a blend of Southern European warmth and a British sense of order. English is widely spoken alongside Maltese, making it easy for travelers to communicate. Time moves slowly, and meals are meant to be enjoyed, not rushed. Churches and religious festivals play a significant role in local life, and visitors should respect dress codes when entering churches.

The festive season in summer transforms towns with fireworks, band marches, and street decorations. If your visit coincides with a local festa, it is worth experiencing the vibrant community celebration and food stalls offering mqaret (date-filled pastries) and nougat.

Hotels to Consider

For accommodations, I recommend:

• The Phoenicia Malta (Valletta) – A classic hotel with historic architecture, sea views, and a pool overlooking the city walls.

• Casa Ellul (Valletta) – A boutique hotel with personalized service and beautifully designed rooms.

• Ta’ Cenc Hotel & Spa (Gozo) – Nestled in nature with views of the cliffs, ideal for a quiet stay.

• Palazzo Consiglia (Valletta) – Combining modern comfort with historical Maltese architecture.

• Point de Vue Guesthouse (Mdina) – Affordable, comfortable, and steps away from the Silent City.

Savoring Malta: A Final Reflection

As I left Malta, I realized that this island is not just a destination but an experience that lingers. The taste of sea salt on your lips after a swim in the Blue Lagoon, the hum of prayer bells over Valletta at dusk, the comforting warmth of a rabbit stew shared with locals, and the pride of a winemaker pouring a glass of Gellewza are moments that turn travel into memory.

For any traveler seeking a blend of history, food, wine, and sea, Malta offers a tapestry woven with stories old and new. You will find yourself wandering its narrow streets, eating flaky pastizzi on the go, sharing laughter with strangers over a glass of Maltese wine, and pausing to watch the sunset over limestone bastions.

If you allow yourself to slow down, Malta will reveal itself to you: quietly, warmly, and deliciously.

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Dirk Ebener is the founder and creator behind the Food Blogger Journey website, drawing on over 40 years of international travel across more than 60 countries. His global adventures have deepened his understanding of regional cuisines, local customs, and the powerful connection between food and culture. From bustling street markets in Asia to quiet vineyard dinners in Europe, Dirk captures authentic culinary experiences through immersive storytelling. Through Food Blogger Journey, he invites readers to explore the world one dish at a time.

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